Tobermory 24-year-old

Really classy stuff here from our Muileach friends at Tobermory. An almost hulking nose of walnut, dense grained wood and sugared almonds takes me to that drawer in my grandmother’s ancient oak sideboard that was always full of treats. Rich molasses, marzipan-stuffed dates from last Christmas, candied peel and barley-sugar candies continue the sweet-shop reminisces. The masterstroke here is the exceptionally finely textured tannins that provide balancing bitterness, allowing my childhood memories to roam free. Drink this with a slice of fruitcake – or, even better, a little paper bag of tuck-shop sweeties.Rob Whitehead, Spirits Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Feb 2022)